Trends: Feminism & Online Marketing

In current news, Feminism is trending. While David Cameron sets out plans to tackle the gender pay gap, the recent cinema release of The Suffragette couldn’t have arrived at a better time. In the midst of the ‘gender equality’ uproar, it seems brands are ‘jumping on the feminism bandwagon’ in order to make themselves relevant or gain media exposure.

The following YouTube advert titled ‘#WEALLLOVEBEER’ aims to generate an online community through media conversation. With a hashtag alone, the video is successful in bringing thousands of like-minded individuals to social media pages. In the future, the followers could be useful for marketing strategies.

The video aims to highlight female ‘power’ by challenging gender associations, however the concept is horrifically flawed. Before I continue my rant, I will let you see for yourself:

The intro reads: “Women’s voices are getting more powerful all over the world, but can they be heard in a bar?”

As a social experiment, the creators filmed a selection of heterosexual couples ordering drinks in an American bar. Each of the women ordered a beer, whereas the men ordered wine or cocktails. When the bartender arrives to present their drinks, the females are horrified to discover their partners cocktails set in front of them.

“Wait, I didn't order this!” one lady exclaimed with disgust, gesturing to a Martini before swapping it for the pint of beer in front of her partner. The bartender apologized profusely for his assumption that a man ordered a beer. What a sexist idiot for making such an assumption, right? To be frank, the whole video was badly executed and flawed in its fabrication of female equality.

I can empathize with the attempt to equalize women when it is relevant (I am all for the women’s voices being heard!), however the assumption that only men drink beer is a social construct rather an a sexist one. Drinking beer is associated with masculine activities (bonding rituals such as fishing, watching football etc) and perceived weight gain. It is also factually proven that women prefer the taste of sweeter, fruitier drinks rather than bitter tasting beer (see study by MW Tin Hannis here). It is unusual that women drink beer for these reasons, however the notion is actually widely accepted in Western culture. Did you ever see the women in ‘Sex and the City’ drinking pints of beer? No? I rest my case.

Similarly, the fashion world often attempts to challenge gender constructs through clothing. Many designers have attempted to re-appropriate the skirt for men, however western culture has resisted (with the traditional exception of the kilt and the cassock). Similarly to the association that men drink beer, women wearing skirts is merely a gender construct that is deeply embedded into our culture. Is it fair to call a man sexist for not wearing a skirt?

Above: Kanye West receives negative press for wearing a skirt in 2012

Retail Settings - Burberry Flagship Stores

Within Fashion Marketing, the retail setting is perhaps the most powerful communication tool. Since fashion products are discretionary purchases, brands must go to great lengths to provide an enjoyable shopping experience, encourage the consumer to purchase and visit again.

In traditional stores, visual merchandising promotes the ‘image’ of a brand through carefully planned spaces and presentation of products. Retail spaces are often arranged to encourage customers to travel in certain directions. Furthermore, POS materials and in-store communication encourage consumers to notice or interact with the products. These elements are particularly useful in luring customers into buying additional products they didn’t know they wanted before they walked into the store.

Flagship stores, however, are the ultimate way to tell the story of a fashion brand. They’re often placed in London or tourist 'hotspots'. Since expense is no object, the retail space becomes a place where brand credentials can be illustrated down to every lavish detail.

The New York Burberry flagship, unveiled in Winter 2002 on 57^th Street, is a particular store that offers the consumer a ‘Brandscape’. Here, the consumer can gain a panoramic view of what the brand has to offer, spread over 24, 000 square feet and six separate floors.

The outer-building features a pattern made from marble stone and brown burnished metal, referencing the classic Burberry plaid. The warm colours represent traditional English materials such as oak and tan leather, distinctive in contrast to the many silver-coloured modernist buildings of New York.  Before entering the interior there is a ‘tunnel’ which offers a transition between American exterior and British interior.

Inside, the focal point of the interior is a grand staircase – a reinterpretation of those found in English country houses. A new and fresh heritage is tied into a traditional English décor of wood, polished metal tactile fabrics – each floor unique in its interpretation of British culture.

The large space is more an accommodating for Burberry to showcase their Prorsum and London collections. The selection represents the comprehensive range for men, women and children as well as accessories and fragrances.

The first floor presents ‘The Art of the Trench’ - an ‘Outerwear’ room which celebrates Burberrys iconic trench coat. Here, the consumer can have coats made-to-measure or repaired, all accommodated by the finest attentive service. Another floor includes an English Tea-room, which encapsulates British way-of-life. Upstairs, a penthouse includes a bar, game stations and a tailoring floor– a space for men to relax (or wait while their partners are shopping).

The store, at the time, was regarded as a significant milestone in Burberry’s growth strategy. However, in 2012, Burberry introduced a World Live flagship in London – a 44,000 square foot space beyond the innovative, which seamlessly merges the physical store and Burberry online.

121 Regent Street is a digitally enabled cultural space. Here, customers can not only celebrate British design and craftsmanship, but also truly immerse into the brand through multimedia content. On-screen technology uses radio-frequency identification that picks up products carrying microchips. This means that while shopping, customers are able to see additional information on their chosen product; from craftsmanship to catwalk looks.  To develop world-class service and encourage brand loyalty, sales assistants carry iPads to recover purchase history and customer preferences. In-store, a weekly program presents a showcase of music, theatre and art – allowing the visitor to become more involved in the Burberry lifestyle than ever before.

Take a look at the video below:

This futuristic flagship leads me to wonder, what does the future hold for luxury stores? How will luxury brands continue to re-invent their retail spaces, to stay ahead of the competition and appeal to their markets desires? One thing is for certain - competitors will have a tough lead to follow!

SOURCES & LINKS: 

Burberry NY Flagship:

http://www.prnewswire.com/news-releases/burberry-opens-flagship-store-in-new-york-57th-street-76542067.html

Burberry New York Flagship image:

http://www.stonepanels.com/images/Burberry-New-York-NY-limestone-04.jpg

London Flagship:

http://pursuitist.com/inside-burberrys-london-flagship-store/

Trend: Sleepwear Sensuality at Paris Fashion Week

 It was Gucci’s memorable fur-lined loafers that could’ve defined the flavor of last season: challenging yet luxurious, geeky yet practical.

At London Fashion Week this year, Roberto Tisci cast the geek-chic vibes aside to slip his models into ‘something more comfortable’ for Spring 2016. He described his candle-lit show as “very romantic” – awash with chemise dresses, wispy lace layers, swinging silk robes and streams of satin.

The trend of sleepwear sensuality has swept over to Paris this fashion week for Spring/Summer 16:

Saint Laurent teamed silky, old-school vintage patterns with pyjama-like spaghetti straps. 

At Celine, necklines were plunging and framed with delicate lace, yet breasts were exposed, suggesting something more intimate than the sex-appeal of cleavage.

A running theme of relaxed shapes at Sacai brings comfort to centre-stage.

Time to dust off your nightie!

REFERENCES

Givenchy Images:

Loafers:

http://scontent.cdninstagram.com/hphotos-xaf1/t51.2885-15/s306x306/e15/10963773_456229317862274_1294866086_n.jpg

Collection: 

http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2016-ready-to-wear/givenchy/slideshow/collection#2

Saint Laurent Image:

http://www.vogue.co.uk/suzy-menkes/2015/10/suzypfw-saint-laurent-glitter-grunge/gallery/1499095

Celine Image:

http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2016-ready-to-wear/celine/slideshow/collection#1

Sacai Image:

http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2016-ready-to-wear/sacai/slideshow/collection#34

Customer Profiles & Culture

As part of our Intercultural Fashion Consumer module, we will create a ‘Consumer Profile’ which will inform the development of a new fashion brand. The research will involve a depth of understanding which will form the basis of a ‘communication strategy’ or a ‘conversation’ between the brand and its consumer.

The beginning of understanding a consumer starts with knowledge of their culture - but how do we define a ‘culture’? Something perceived as intangible or abstract? Child and Kieser (1977) present the view that cultures may be defined as ‘patterns of thought and manners which are widely shared’.

The beginning of ‘breaking down’ a culture could start with the geographical location, taking into account linguistic, ethnic or religious variants that differentiate groups of people. Furthermore, there are a plethora of variants that could shape cultural values:

Education/Knowledge

Beliefs

Morals/upbringing

Rituals

Heroes (behavior models - real or imaginary)

Depth of research into each of these variants will form a rounded understanding of the consumer – the first step in identifying their behavior, motivation, influences and lifestyle choices. A poor perception of a culture means a limited knowledge base, which could lead to an incorrect categorization – and therefore ineffective marketing strategies.

Above: cultural stereotypes of the USA: dramatic, incorrect AND offensive

(Source: http://whatculture.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/10/america-states-stereotypes.jpg)

A reflection: my culture

I believe that my culture is underpinned by a manifestation of values from my upbringing, my social behavior and way-of-life in Britain:

My values derived from my family who taught me moral right and wrong and raised me with a hard-working attitude. Like many in the UK, my family partake in Christian traditions (Christmas, Easter etc) however I grew with these as a social construct rather than a religious belief. I was educated at state-schools which developed my knowledge and social behavior. In the future, I expect to get a job, a house and start a family – to the expectations of family tradition and customs of Western civilization – as bleak as that may sound!

At age 21, my culture surrounds ‘student life’ within further education. I live in an urban area, have a small disposable income and spend a considerable amount of time consuming media (TV, print and the internet/social media). Due to a busy schedule and employment, my social life surrounds weekend activities, much like many of my friends. Our working lifestyles could explain the popularity of club-culture that is very much alive in Britain today. Fashion plays a significant role in this transitional part of my life, which makes me part of a prime target market for many fashion brands.